Weaving in Bulgaria

History

Weaving as a craft dates back since ancient times in our lands. Cultural symbiosis between Thracians, Slavs and proto- Bulgarians turns this craft into art. From one side it is originated in the ethnic traits of each ethnicity and from the other side, Byzantium, which is the biggest consumer of cloths, sets the high standards to the quality of the textiles. Ethnography and folklore studies pay great attention to the symbols applied to the cloths. The traits are so well studied that every particular textile can be recognized with its specific region of origin.

Looms

The most popular loom spread almost in every village house was the horizontal home loom. It is used for fine fiber weaving for family needs of clothes, mats, rags,  used for house furnishing. This loom is composed of two wood frames which comprise two beams. The rear beam is for the yarn beam at the front beam the weaved is rolled. The other loom is connected to the East traditions in weaving introduced in our lands with the Persian carpets. The specific of this loom is the lack of shuttle. The yarn is pounded over the beam by wooden hammer or comb.
These techniques let the weaver make plastic pictures on the carpet, where the symmetry specific of Bulgarian traditional carpets and rugs is not compulsory. Every detail is hand made and various spinning techniques are used depending on the desired relief of the carpet.

Traditional Bulgarian horizontal loom

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BLOSwSnAGoo

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slc_YJIA5nQ

Materials

The main material used in weaving is wool which preparation includes washing, cleaning of thorns and other impurities, carding, spinning. Fleece is also used which is processed similarly to the wool though it is coarse and hard to manipulate. Fleeces of goat fur are thick, coarse and heavy. Cotton with time is more used for fiber base. It is easer for spinning into finer threads, firm, not vulnerable to atmospheric influence and moths.

Colours

In some places of the country there are more than 50 colour nuances known and used. The variety of nuances is achieved not only by the dyes but also by the thickness of paints, prepared by entirely organic materials.

Weaving today

Today weaving in Bulgaria is preserved in crafts centres. The traditions are taught in the National  ArtsAcademy. There used to be a loom in every household. Nowadays there are few women who still have the looms of their grandmothers and even fewer are those who can use it.